Radically Local

EXPLORING THE POTENTIAL OF BIOREGIONAL BRITISH FIBRES,

FABRICS AND FASHION SYSTEMS TO MOVE US LUXURIOUSLY

TOWARDS REGENERATIVE FUTURES.

WHAT ARE THE POSSIBILITIES OF AND OBSTACLES TO REGENERATIVE LOCAL FIBRE, FABRIC AND FASHION SYSTEMS?

The global fashion industry contributes significantly to the environmental degradation of our planet and to climate change. Many fashion practitioners are looking for alternative ways of producing their clothing to the normative extractive systems. The word ‘regenerative’ increasingly is appropriated in marketing campaigns for brands that seem not to understand its meaning. It is crucial now to create our clothing in regenerative ways – how might we demonstrate what this really means before the term is washed of meaning, in the ways the ‘sustainable’ has?

How might we create clothing in radically benign and transparent ways, regenerating local ecologies and communities and reducing its carbon footprint?

The Radically Local project explores the potential of reviving heritage British textile systems for the 21st century, to reimagine contemporary, sustainable luxury clothing solutions that are distinctive, culturally-grounded and expressive of a heritage that has been almost erased by the industrialisation and globalisation of fashion.

Our team will explore a series of bioregional textile sourcing strategies, and will analyse their successes and challenges, to formulate strategies and recommendations for designers that are seeking to transition to a sustainable and regenerative approach. Ultimately, we will test the viability of our research and disseminate its findings in a range of locally-produced garments whose provenance is clear, compelling and embodying a vision of optimism for small-scale, craft-based British manufacturing that is beautiful, luxurious and operating in harmony with people and planet.

TEAM MEMBERS

Zoe Gilbertson is researching regenerative fibre systems in the United Kingdom, with a particular focus on wool and bast fibres (https://www.churchillfellowship.org/ideas-experts/fellows-directory/zoe-gilbertson/).

Emma D’Arcey is researching naturally-dyed, regeneratively-farmed British alpaca fibre to be used in a series of high-quality jacquard fabrics. (https://www.aotextiles.com/emma-darcey-bio).

Clare Lopeman is researching a new and regenerative model for British couture for the 21st century, including the role of coding in personally-customised weaving and garments (https://clarelopeman.com).

Kirsten Scott is researching the potential to revive Welsh Tapestry production in new ways, evolving this to become truly regenerative by using locally-farmed alpaca and heritage wool blends, with natural dyes and bioregional colour palettes (https://www.kirstenscott.org).

It is envisioned that the Radically Local project will incorporate other local textile traditions as it develops, including lace making, linen and hemp fabrics, and knitted items to compose a regenerative, 21st century British range.

This research will support smaller fashion brands wishing to transition to truly sustainable, local production and has significance for a fashion industry that must embrace radical change.

Local fleece, patterns and yarns of consciousness.

What patterns are traditional to the British Isles? What histories do they carry?

Work in progress from Kirsten Scott, experimenting with reconstructing Sanquhar and other knit patterns in natural fleece shades of certified organic Shetland wool from Tamarisk Farm (https://tamariskfarm.co.uk/our-wool/), purchased at DeFashion Dorset (https://www.hawkersfarm.org/defashion-dorset).

There is nothing quite like knitting, weaving or plaiting to allow the mind to run free, to think laterally and make seemingly random connections, to find possibilities. The wool for these samples is all local, organic and in the natural colours of the fleece. Wensleydale is a revelation: very soft, quite fine, and silky. I was led to using it after listening to Julia Desch describe it as more luxurious than merino. The Shetland yarn is lovely to knit with too.